Opened last week, we reviewed Covent Garden’s new vegan pop-up, Floozie Cookie, by Kimberley Lin. Here’s what we thought.
Former Claridge’s pastry chef Kimberley Lin has opened Floozie Cookie, an all-vegan cookie bar in Covent Garden. Operating as a three-month pop-up, it’s billed as London’s only stuffed vegan cookie site.
Opposite the Apple Store on James Street, it’s hard to miss the red board with large blue text. There’s a Christmas tree decked with white and baby pink flowers and fairy lights on the left, and a decorative ladder surrounded by more flowers. The vegan eatery’s walls are flush with green, with rainbow-coloured alt-milk bottles on floating shelves.
There are six cookies on Floozie Cookie’s menu, one of them seasonal. There are five Rainbow Mylks — chocolate, hazelnut, banana, strawberry and celebration — all with a base of homemade oat milk. And behind the counter are three containers with flavoured hot chocolates — classic, hazelnut and the seasonal peppermint.
We taste-tested all the Floozie Cookies and reviewed them to see how they fare.
A pink vanilla cookie filled with raspberry jam, the level of crunchiness in this cookie is perfect. The rainbow sprinkles on top provide an added crunch too. But while the exterior is cerealy and packed with vanilla, it’s the homemade jam that disappoints. The raspberry flavour is masked by its sweetness, which overpowers the entire cookie. Even though you’re eating a cookie, you have the same aftertaste as eating a Victoria sponge cake.
Perhaps the yardstick for all other cookies, Floozie Cookie’s chocolate chunk is filled with each a dark and milk chocolate ganache, which make for a beautiful cross-section. It’s very decadent, but the sugar levels are well-balanced. The dark chocolate shines through — the cocoa percentage seems high. The ganache is velvety smooth. The outside is crispy, perfectly complemented by the molten dark and milk chocolate pieces on top. It’s classic and delicious.
A butterscotch cookie stuffed with date caramel and topped with toasted pecans, the combination of flavours is refreshingly great. The exterior cookie has wonderful toffee notes from the butterscotch, which complements the pecans and dates. But the texture of the date caramel isn’t ideal. Instead of being smooth and glossy like regular caramel, the dates are more like mashed bananas, which doesn’t work with the rest of the cookie’s consistency.
Ginger. Cinnamon. Vanilla. The perfect trio. Floozie Cookie’s Cinnamon Crunch is filled with speculoos spread (or Biscoff, if that’s your thing). The addition of the crunchy cinnamon cereal on top is wonderful, but with the added icing, it makes the cookie slightly too sweet. This could do with some salt for some balance, but it’s a great mix of flavours nonetheless.
This is Floozie Cookie’s only gluten-free option. It’s an age-old combination, and the peanut butter delivers. But the raspberry jam is too sweet, just like in the Celebration Cake cookie. It completely overpowers the cookie, and the roasted peanuts on top aren’t enough to balance it out.
Read our review of the best peanut butters in the UK.
Black Forest (Seasonal)
This is the star of the show. The cookie itself is dark chocolate-flavoured — and it hits the right spot. It’s filled with white chocolate and a morello cherry jam. Unlike the raspberry jam in other cookies, this isn’t overly sweet, and the balance jam’s sweetness works in tandem with the sourness of the cherry. It’s topped with freeze-dried raspberries for crunch and an added tang, and a golden leaf for a finishing touch. This is a fitting tribute to a traditional black forest cake.
Floozie Cookie is making a statement. It’s a bold decision to not go with branding that promotes itself as a vegan business, but it works. The store gets a lot of footfall, and tasting the cookies, you can see it doesn’t matter that they aren’t vegan. They taste like regular cookies, and they’re innovative.
At £3.50 for a cookie, the price is what you’d expect from a standard independent store in Central London. And it delivers. Grab the Celebration Mylk (vanilla with blue spirulina powder) and some hot chocolate with the cookies, and you’ve got yourself a delicious little vegan treat.